The first time that you are thrown forward towards the beach by the white water is the moment when it changes, the moment you become hooked. You paddle or run back out and try to catch another wave as you want to experience that feeling again. You then start planning when you can next rent a board or when you can get to the beach again.
From there it spirals to getting a board and wetsuits and checking the forecast and, bit by bit, it starts to take over your life.
From the constantly checking the forecast to making sure you have enough wax. Keeping boards in the car so you can go straight after work or driving six hundred miles to catch a swell. Running into a sea that is -5ยบ in just a thin layer or rubber just because there's been no waves for two weeks or giving up your career just to be nearer the sea.
There are too many thing to list that people do once they have discovered the joy of riding waves but this book hopefully shows the minutiae of life that is the most important to the wave-rider. The everyday that makes waiting for the next surf seem so important and fun.
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